3 perfect days in Maui

Using the words “perfect” and “Maui” in the same sentence is a bit redundant. Putting aside the fact that the island’s infrastructure can barely contain its annual swell of visitors—traffic can be downright dismal at times—you’re never more than a stone’s throw from the gentle spray of a waterfall, the warm touch of the sun on your back or a volcanic vista so sublime it threatens to make your heart explode out of sheer joy. Every day in Maui really is perfect, but here’s one way to do a long weekend on this beloved island exactly right.

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Day 1

Just three days is really pushing it so you’ll want to hit the ground running. Although accommodations on the island generally aren’t cheap, they nevertheless run the gamut and many are ocean facing. The path of least resistance is to make your home base in either the town of Kihei or its ritzy next door neighbor Wailea. Both towns are centrally located and each offer numerous lodging options.

For an easy and unforgettable beach day, check out Big Beach and Little Beach at Mākena State Park near Wailea. The soft sand at Big Beach forms a delicate, crescent moon and the clear water begs to be swam in (although the shore break is strong enough at high tide that novice swimmers should exercise caution). Nevertheless, the beach is family friendly, convivial and offers plenty of elbow room for all. Nearby Little Beach, meanwhile, is just a short walk away and is one of several nude beaches on the islands. Even if that’s not your thing, the crowd is super chill and the Sunday drum jams and parties are not to be missed.

Big Beach, Maui

Even if you’re squeamish about seafood, no visit to Maui is complete without at least trying a fish taco. Options around the island are numerous, but for a perfectly filling fish taco dinner hit up Coconut’s Fish Cafe which boasts two Kihei outposts. Ignore the strip mall atmosphere and the relatively high price for street food (everything on the island is expensive) and instead focus on the goodness that is two fat, grilled fish tacos stuffed with 17 ingredients including their own homemade coleslaw and a lovely mango salsa.

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Day 2

Rise and shine early (we’re talking around 4am in winter and even earlier in summer) and make the pre-dawn trek to Haleakala National Park to watch the sunrise over the Haleakala Crater. The road to Haleakala is long, twisty and a bit unnerving in the dark so allow plenty of time. Although we wouldn’t be the first to say it, also bring snacks, a cup of hot coffee, a blanket from your hotel and the winter coat you wore on the plane. The viewing area sits at 10,000 feet and you will shiver if unprepared. Next, settle in for a sublime, otherworldly vista that includes a giant bear hug from the Maui morning sun, the awesome reveal of the crater’s Martian-like surface, ubiquitous fatty clouds and a gasp-worthy view of the Big Island in the distance. Stick around after dawn and do some hiking.

Situated on the west side of the island, Lahaina, is a charming “city” and former capital of the Kingdom of Hawaii from 1820 to 1845. These days, tourists flock to Front Street, a walkable stretch of shops, cafés and restaurants and, unfortunately, plenty of tacky souvenir shops that mar the otherwise lovely facades. Nevertheless, it’s a lovely place for lunch and a stroll, and many of the eateries have oceanfront views. Also, be sure and save room for a scoop or two of Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice—pure heaven!

Whale watching in Maui

Choose from one of two late-afternoon activities. Either return to your resort for an afternoon of reclining poolside and drinking in both a piña colada and a sunset at a nearby beach or, if visiting between December and May, book a whale watching tour (easily done through most resorts) and prepare to have your mind blown. Every fall the humpback whales begin their southward migration from Alaska to Hawaii and many end up hanging out in the waters off of Maui making sightings easy and practically guaranteed. While nothing beats the thrill of watching a pod of males chase a female, just seeing a fin pop out of the water guarantees delight.

The dining scene in Maui alternates between upscale restaurants that wow patrons, meaning honeymooners and love birds, with both their ocean views and hefty price tags, and roadside food stands peddling banana bread, fruit smoothies and shrimp plates. Monkeypod Kitchen (also with a location on Oahu) offers a happy medium. A convivial Wailea eatery with a price point that won’t destroy your credit rating, Monkeypod serves up wood-fired pizzas, burgers and healthier fare in a lively, open dining room. Prepare to wait!

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Day 3

Remember how you awoke super, super early to see the sunrise over the crater? Well prepare to do the same again, but this time the crater is below the water, not above the clouds. Snorkeling and diving in Hawaii is among the best in North America and a sunrise snorkel at the partially submerged and crescent-shaped Molokini Crater offers an invigorating way to begin a final day on the island while also guaranteeing close encounters of the aquatic kind with tropical fish straight out of the Finding Nemo franchise and perhaps even a turtle! Crater tours are offered all day, but if you’re willing to take the sunrise version you’ll beat the crowds by at least an hour or two.

Road to Hana

Continue to hit the ground running—make that driving. Gas up your rental car (the preferred mode of transportation for the drive we’re about to recommend is a Mustang convertible) and hit the Road to Hana, a twisty, two-lane road that swoops and whooshes around sheer cliffs, gushing waterfalls, black sand beaches, food stands, lime-green forests and so much more. A legendary road trip if there ever was one, the Road to Hana is justly famous and an unmissable component to every Maui visit. Allow time for sunbathing, hiking, an afternoon dip and the the inevitable traffic both there and back. This road moves at a snail’s pace!

The preferred snack along the Road to Hana is a loaf of freshly baked banana bread. We recommend an early arrival at Ke’anae Landing Fruit Stand when the bread is hot to the touch and at its most delicious. It’s seriously otherworldy and will tide you over until a grand ocean side lunch at Mama’s Fish House—Maui’s most famous restaurant.

Recalling Old Hawaii with its Polynesian decor, efficient service and menu focused on seafood mined from the ocean that very morning, Mama’s Fish House is an opulent farewell meal best enjoyed at sunset. Snag a reservation months in advance and demand a window table with views of the ocean punctuated by Mama’s own private beach and a tangle of gorgeous palm trees. Welcome to heaven on earth.

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