3 perfect days in Merida, Mexico

Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula is famous for its flawless beaches and Mayan ruins, but capital city Merida proves there’s more to the region than just striking vistas. A three-hour drive from Cancun, Merida is literally a world away when it comes to travel experiences. You won’t find touristy gimmicks or Señor Frogs here. This sophisticated colonial city offers historic architecture, museums and gourmet restaurants, as well asMayan heritage and nearby beaches. Merida’s historic center, dating from the 18th and 19th centuries, is the second largest historic center in Mexico and walking it highlights the city’s attractive blend of traditional and contemporary.

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Day 1: Haciendas and historic landmarks

One of the hallmarks of Merida are the 17th- and 18th-century haciendas dotting many streets. These large estates once produced agricultural products—similar to the plantations of the American South—and in Merida made big money for wealthy landowners through the production of henequen (a variety of agave cactus) and sisal. The haciendas were abandoned after the Yucatan Caste War supplied more equity to Mayan workers and the invention of synthetic fibers lessened demand for sisal. Many of the haciendas have been converted into charming hotels that showcase the beauty of Yucatan architecture and some have been transformed into museums and stores. Take a tour or book a stay at one of the standout haciendas, including  Hotel Hacienda, Casa Lecanda and Rosas Y Xocolate.

Photo courtesy of Casa Lecanda

Next, stroll down to the Historic Center and marvel at Cathedral de San Ildefonso, one of the oldest cathedrals in North America built between 1561 and 1598 using stones from the ruins of Mayan pyramids. Visit the carved stone elegance of Casa Montejo and then peruse the artworks in Palacio Municipal and its adjoining art enter. Cap your day off at Parque de Santa Lucia, which is lined with sidewalk cafés and hosts live traditional music and dances.

Day 2: Pyramids, beaches and chocolate

Progreso Beach | Photo: Rosalind Cummings-Yeates

Soak up the famous Yucatan ocean views at Progreso Beach, a popular chill out spot for locals interested in sandy relaxation. Sit under a palm-roofed palapa and sample traditional treats from vendors like yucca candy or stroll the malecon for the ultimate beach vistas. Grab lunch of fresh pescado tikin xic, or fish seasoned with achiote and cooked in banana leaves, and then head to the Mayan ruins of Dzibilchaltun, located a little north of Merida. Noted as the longest city of the Mayan World, Dzibilchaltun’s highlight is the Temple of the Seven Dolls, which boasts doorways that capture the rising sun during the spring and fall equinoxes. Don’t miss a dip in the lily pad covered cenote (water-filled sinkhole) at the edge of the ruins.

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There’s another major Mayan site near Merida, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Uxmal, whose pyramids and structures are just as jaw-dropping as Chichen Itza’s but without the crowds. No trip into the heart of Mayan heritage is complete without exploring the culture’s creation of chocolate, so a visit to the Choco Story museum in Uxmal is a must. You’ll learn about chocolate history and even sample rich Mayan chocolate.

Day 3: Fiestas and feasts

Mercado Lucas de Galvez, courtesy of Rosalind Cummings-Yeates

So much of Yucatan culture is connected to its cuisine and there’s no better way to discover its complexity than with a cooking class. Explore the sprawling main market of Mercado Lucas de Galvez with Top Chef Mexico’s Christian Bravo and then whip up Yucatecan dishes at Casa Lecanda before enjoying your creation in the hotel’s formal dining room. Another option is a “Flavors of the Yucatan” experience with Tia Stephanie Tours, where Mayan culinary traditions, including recados (dry rubs) and pib cooking are examined in detail. Taste the flavors of traditional dishes like cochinita pibil or shredded barbecue pork and pavo relleno negro, turkey covered in a sauce of charred chiles and spices, at Chaya Maya, a lively eatery that specializes in Yucatecan cuisine. Wrap up your day by roaming through the food stands and vendors during Merida en Domingo, a weekly festival showcasing the rich culture and spirit of Merida.

Tagged: Destinations, Mexico