3 perfect days in Copenhagen

At first glance, Copenhagen has many pluses: an appreciation for architecture and design, a happening restaurant and brewery scene, a down-to-earth royal family and a super-friendly attitude toward bicycles. Dig deeper and you’ll quickly discover how Denmark’s capital city stays touch with its past, thanks to a ton of museums and monuments, while appealing to modern interests. Here are 3 perfect days in Copenhagen:

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Day 1 – National Museum of Denmark, Christiansborg Palace, Christianshavn, and Tivoli Gardens

Start the morning at the National Museum of Denmark, or in Danish, Nationalmusset. This cultural history museum, inside a former royal residence, takes visitors on a time warp starting beginning in the Ice Age and continuing through the Middle Ages and the Renaissance all the way up to the 20^th century. Danish history takes precedence here, but other world cultures have their place as well. Exhibits feature a mix of artifacts and memorabilia like Stone Age hunting tools, swords from the Bronze Age and even a hash stall from Christiania (see below).

Christiansborg Palace

Next, head to Christiansborg Palace, which served as a powerhouse for Danish royalty and now houses offices for Denmark’s legislative, executive and judiciary branches. Located on an islet, this palace has a layout that’s interesting from top to bottom. Ruins dating back to the 12^th century of a castle once belonging to Bishop Absalon (credited as the founder of Copenhagen) lay underneath. On the opposite spectrum, head up the palace’s tower for overhead views or a meal inside its restaurant. The palace also features interior sections still used by the Danish monarchy: reception halls and rooms, the royal stables, kitchen and chapel.

From the castle, cross over the harbor to get to Christianshavn, a trendy neighborhood surrounded by canals and featuring cafes and Michelin-star restaurants, like the high-ranked Noma. One key sight is the Church of Our Saviour, and once you see it, you’ll understand why. Visitors can climb up the exterior staircase of the church’s 400-step winding spire, where the last 150 steps are reportedly not for the faint at heart.

Yet what’s really a funky spot to visit is Freetown Christiania. Founded in 1971, by squatters settling in an abandoned military base, this self-governing residential area remains completely car free and quite bohemian with its mix of shops, nightspots and organic eateries. There is a posted list of do’s and don’ts for visiting outsiders, such as no taking pictures, which must be headed. If unsure about exploring this neighborhood on your own, consider going on a guided tour.

Tivoli Gardens

End your first day by heading back to the city center and getting amused. As the second oldest operating amusement park in the world, behind fellow Danish park, Dyrehavsbakken, Tivoli Gardens contains rides of various speeds and heights taking riders up and down or side to side. For getting a bite to eat in between rides, meal options at Tivoli go beyond common carnival fare. Choose from Danish, Chinese, Asian, Italian, and French food along with a beer hall, burger joints and sandwich shops. Or get ice cream, candy or something sweeter from various stands, and cafes. There are arcade games too, and souvenir stores. As for visiting, come at night, when the park gardens and attractions are all lit up.

Day 2 – Nyhavn, Amalienborg, Designmuseum Danmark, and the statue of the Little Mermaid

Begin at Nyhavn, a harbor area that once was both a gritty sailors’ quarter and busy commercial shipping port but now is a brightly colorful row of 17^th– and 18^th-century townhouses turned into restaurants, pubs, and cafes. Danish writer Hans Christian Andersen lived along here at times in three different houses. Yet he wrote fairytales such as “The Princess and the Pea” at the residenc, marked as No. 20. Nyhavn’s canal still functions as a holding dock for ships and boats, including a boat tour of Copenhagen’s waterways.

Nyhavn

Next, go up toward Amalienborg,a royal residence madeup of four identical 18^th-century palaces surrounded by an octagon courtyard. First occupied by noble families, the Danish royals came to live in Amalienborg after a fire destroyed their original home at Christiansborg Palace in 1794 and their new digs ended up becoming their permanent residence. If their royal flag is up it means they’re home. The Amalienborg Museum makes for a quick visit to see various private rooms, but mainly try to focus on catching the Royal Life Guards (called Den Kongelige Livgarde) during their noon daily changing of the guard ceremony in the Palace Square. Visitors who are big on design should take some time out to see the nearby Designmuseum Danmark, one of the city’s major decorative arts museums celebrating Denmark’s design influence and with a lovely courtyard.

Little Mermaid Statue | Flickr CC: brando.n

About a 15 minute or so trek from Amalienborg, the statue of the Little Mermaid can seem like a touristy thing to see, but this circa 1913 bronze statue depicting the main character in Andersen’s fairytale gets many visitors. She’s situated on a rock in the waterfront, along what’s known as the Langelinie promenade, and said to be the most photographed statue in Denmark. Overtime, the poor girl has been subject to vandalism, even being blown off her foundation, but she still stays grounded.

Day 3 – Rosenborg Castle, Torvehallerne, The Round Tower, and Carlsberg

Yes, it’s another castle, but what makes Rosenborg stand out from the previous two royal homes are itsbeautiful surroundings and being the location for the Danish crown jewels. Inside this Renaissance castle, walk through various rooms on three floors, taking in fine furnishings and royal portraits, but linger for a while in the impressive Knights’ Hall. Give yourself more time inside the basement area, where Treasury items like exquisite gems and coronation crowns are kept. Upon exiting, wander a bit around the castle’s lovely gardens.

Rosenborg Castle

For a meal or a snack, go to a food market known as Torvehallerne. It consists of two buildings housing Danish and international food booths, peddling delicacies such as Spanish tapas, artisan coffee, healthy juices, sushi, pastries, and sweets like licorice, a Danish favorite. Consider ordering a Smørrebrød, a traditional Danish open-faced sandwich consisting of a piece of dark brown bread topped most often with cold cuts, a fishy spread such as shrimp or salmon or hardboiled eggs.

After leaving Torvehallerne, venture east to the Round Tower, or Rundetaarn. Since 1642, this circular tower has operated as an astronomical observatory. How you go up the tower is unique. Its flat, cobbled and spiral ramp takes a winding path upwards – all sans stairs and an elevator. Rest stops, a library hall and a bell loft align this route. Upon reaching the top, reward yourself with panoramic views and pics, then go up just a bit further to see the small observatory area with a nifty telescope and constellation displays.

Afterward, head south toward Strøget, a major pedestrian zone lined with department stores and connected to neighboring squares like Amagertorv, noted for its Stork Fountain. Amagertorv isalso a street away from Højbro Plads, a square where a statue of a fierce-looking Bishop Absalon on horseback is hard to miss. Also find shops, eateries, and perhaps a cart selling pølser, a traditional Danish hotdog. These dogs come topped with hearty combos (the traditional version includes ketchup, mustard, onions, remoulade, and pickles) yet have prices that are easy on the wallet.

Entrance to Carlsberg Brewery | Flickr CC: Gabriel Hess

Strøget leads back to the City Square, which is only a 10-minute stroll from Visit Carlsberg, in the hip district of Vesterbro. This tour site is the location of theCarlsberg Brewery, which no longer produces beer but now operates as an exhibition center. At this site, learn about this well-respected Danish brand through a guided tour and go for a tasting at the end.

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