#Vinecations: Marrakech and the Djemaa el Fna

The souks of Marrakech, Morocco, converge on the largest and busiest square on the African continent, the Djemaa el Fna. By day, the square bustles with artisans, water-sellers, orange juice vendors, shoppers and tourists. By night, it becomes a huge open-air restaurant of home-cooked meals, serving up traditional Moroccan fare such as tagines and kebabs. Between day and night, during the magic hours of dusk, the square swarms with storytellers, snake charmers, magicians, dancers, drummers, and all manner of colorful characters.

What to See

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Marrakech medina is a staple of any Morocco itinerary, and a worthy destination in itself. Many attractions of historical and architectural interest, as well as cultural treasures, are located in the medina.

1. The Koutoubia Mosque, the landmark of Marrakech, towers above the Djemaa el Fna. While the inside is not accessible to non-Muslims, it is worthwhile to explore the gardens and admire the exterior architecture.

2. The Bahia Palace, builtin the 18th century, is a rich architectural delight, with 150 rooms containing excellent examples of zellij (terra cotta tile work), painted ceilings, tiled floors, carved-cedar ceilings, stucco, mosaic inlay, and stained glass.

3. Jardin Majorelle is a garden villa once home to Yves Saint Laurent. The former studio now houses the Berber Art Museum, a small but rich collection of artifacts of Berber culture including textiles, weaponry, instruments, traditional clothing, as well as a stunning collection of jewels.

4. The Saaidian Tombs, dating back to the 15th-17th centuries, house an elaborately ornate mausoleum with Islamic script tile work, imported Italian marble, and pure gold gilded plasterwork.

What to Do

Shopping: The souks of Marrakech are a shopping mecca, where you can find everything from traditional leather goods, ceramics, clothing, lamps and baskets to jewelry, furniture, carpets, and contemporary art. Haggling is expected, and serious transactions might include negotiating over mint tea. Keep your eyes open for artisans quietly at work in the corner of a stall – it is especially meaningful to bring home a handicraft that you’ve watched the artisan create.

Dining: Food options are plentiful, and the visitor is no longer limited to goat stew tagines or couscous with vegetables. Many private riads serve sumptuous multi-course meals accompanied by musicians or storytellers. Cooking classes have grown in popularity, and are a great way to spend an afternoon – preparing your own Moroccan meal with skilled chefs and perhaps using fresh ingredients that you’ve picked out in the markets.

Where to stay

The best betfor comfortable and authentic Moroccan ambiance is to stay in one of the many riads in Marrakech. These boutique hotels offer the intimacy of a private residence located in the heart of the medina, often with luxury standards of food and service.