Little Dix Bay Resort is the best experience in the BVI and the upscale British BVI version of Caneel, but with a totally different layout, much longer and larger main beach. The resort closed for renovation in summer 2016, and hopefully re-opens on schedule in late 2017. Little Dix has had some development added on the mountain for old-time purists, not bad, but more buildings in last 10-15 years, with swanky hotel villas packed along ridge on this large 700 acre estate. I would have preferred Rockefeller's approach of natural-looking integration of buildings. The Spa is superb, with a new pool and tiny hot tubs on cliff gardens, overlooking BVI, and a steep staircase to a 2nd private hidden micro-beach. Development can have positives too.
HOW TO GET HERE
I first visited in late 1980s via the Caneel Ferry when Caneel and Little Dix used to be sister resorts. The boat trip between St John and Virgin Gorda is spectacular on a sunny day. Today, it is possible via a private charter ($700) or day-tour boat ($99 pp) from Cruz Bay to Virgin Gorda, Spanish Harbor. Spanish Harbor is run by Little Dix Bay Hotel. Hotel is 5 minute taxi away. Or fly to Tortola from San Juan and Little Dix will take you to the resort by their private ferry with lovely sundeck and rum punch.
SCUBA
There are hundreds of incredible diving spots a mile or less off the hotel.
One dive that comes to mind descends huge undersea boulders and canals
encrusted with endless tubes and sponges. Numerous tunnels and doorways descend to a vast tarpon-fish feeding ground. Very unique.
THE BATHS
The Baths have endless spectacular beaches and are the main attraction and I recommend you visit them multiple ways. By boat and by land. Noon and afteroon have different feels, so enjoy them more than once. Also, go after 4pm and the crowds are gone, the sunset is gorgeous at 6pm, and you might see 10 people the rest of the afternoon, year-round. BTW at the top of the Baths there is a restaurant.
For those daring, there are plenty of tidal pools to swim and snorkel in the currents and there are many places to climb the ridges of boulders. Also to jump amid huge rocks or to climb up chimneys and tight passages. Just remember you might have to go back the way you came in, so pay attention to your precise route and reserve some strength to get out backwards. Climbing a chimney in 85F is certainly a test to know you still got it. The waves are loud and after 4pm there is no one around, so bring a climbing buddy and a phone.
NORTH SOUND
An unexpected feast for the eyes lies ahead ...
Rent a Jeep at Little Dix and head left, following the left-coast of Island. Note the gorgeous slinky beaches stretching next door. When the road splits in 1 mile, head left and follow along the steep mountain, past a variety of small lookouts and small resorts. Grab a drink and enjoy the viewing deck at Hog Heaven Restaurant. In the distance are Eustatius, Prickly Pear, Necker Islands, and Anegada further. Continue along the road and turn left onto the main road. Pay attention turn left and head to Leverick Bay and the pool near Pussers Rum Bar for a drink and check out the pier, local shops, and mighty super-yachts and red British phone booth.
From Leverick turn left and head down steep cliff road to the North Sound Ferry depot. Park here and grab a complimentary tiny boat to the famous Bitter End Yacht Club for drinks and to check out the vast grounds, restaurant, shops. Note the over-water sun deck is great for a snooze and to watch the pelicans.
When it gets near dinner time (7pm), take a sunset tiny ferry boat from Bitter End Yacht Club's pier to the tiny Saba Rock for dinner and drinks. Make sure to ask they are going to the Restaurant. The many fish in the vast North Sound will be swimming to the Restaurant underwater lights. It is incredible sight for kids and adults. And to feed the fish that jump and fight for food. They also have a huge lit tidal aquarium filled with eels, lobsters, crabs, and tons of fish. There is also an interesting shop selling pirate treasure, real heavy silver bars, etc. The atmosphere, dinner, food quality, lively bar and on-the-water views, sea-life, illuminated lagoon, tiny boat ferries coming-and-going, from this restaurant (and boutique hotel) is unique and unmatched in the BVI or USVI.
THE BVI WAY
Note these islands have a more dressy and formal culture (no Texas red necks here) and are relatively quiet compared to other Carribean islands. The hotel development is minimal, there are large stretches of tropical vegetation, and the main attraction is the nature, the sea and the land, the gorgeous views. You will not find any world-class discos, night clubs or wild bars or restaurants like Puerto Rico, St Martin, or St Barts. This place is for peaceful days and nights, relaxing with a rum cocktail and some wine. Little Dix Bay has some dinners with live music band and dancing, but it is hotel scene, with patrons from 20s to 70-80s.
Come here for the incredible nature, kayaking, water sports, scuba diving, tennis, boating, rock climbing, hiking, and powdery ivory sand beaches.
