21 miles northwest of Buffalo; 165 miles northwest of Ithaca

Okay, let's ignore the wedding and honeymoon thing for a minute and just focus on the water. It flows down the Niagara River, picking up speed as it courses along its ancient migratory pathway, reaching speeds of up to 30 mph before tumbling, hundreds of thousands of gallons at a time, over the craggy rocks of Niagara Falls. You can get the view with your toes just inches from both sets of falls, the American Falls and the Horseshoe Falls; you can also check them out from way up high, from your hotel room, or from down below, with the mist spraying up in your face.

That's the cool part of the falls. And since we share the attraction with Canada, you can take in the view from the New York side or the Ontario side. On the American side you can see the pre-falls rapids and get varied views of the water. Across the border is a gorgeous panorama of both the American Falls and Horseshoe Falls. The Canadian side is much better set up for travelers, with a wealth of hotels, restaurants, and activities that you won't find on the economically depressed American side.

Now let's get to the kitsch. Ever since two American aristocrats honeymooned here in 1801, followed by Jerome Bonaparte (Napoleon's younger brother) and his bride 3 years later, the area surrounding the falls has been a draw for elopers and honeymooners, complete with heart-shaped whirlpool tubs and mirrored ceilings, along with wax museums and souvenir shops.

That Niagara Falls still exists, and people love it: Hotel owners say the heart-shaped-tub rooms are their most popular. But it's changing. When the Canadian side opened a casino a few years ago, chain hotels came chasing the money, building high-rise properties on the most scenic land. That building frenzy is still happening: Today, the Canadian side is awash in cranes and construction -- more hotels are going up, along with a second casino, scheduled to open in 2004.

In a desperate attempt to keep up, the American side just opened its own casino, but the sad truth is that Niagara Falls, New York, is full of boarded-up buildings and run-down hotels. While both sides offer falls attractions and cool water views, the Canadian side is where the fun is. Best of all, the exchange rate makes for some great deals. Bring your passport.