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It is difficult to identify the best beaches without specifying for whom: fearless surfers or timid toddlers, party types or incurable recluses? The bayside and sound beaches, for instance, tend to be much more placid than those on the ocean, and thus preferable for little ones who only plan to splash and muck about.
Sandy Neck Beach: This relatively unpopulated, 6-mile barrier beach, extending from the eastern edge of Sandwich to shelter Barnstable Harbor, features pretty little dunes seldom seen on the bayside. Hike in far enough (but avoid the nests of piping plovers), and you're sure to find a secluded spot. Adventurous types can even camp overnight with permission (tel. 508/362-8300).
Falmouth Heights Beach: On a clear day, you can see Martha's Vineyard from this hip beach in Falmouth's most picturesque neighborhood. Grand turn-of-the-20th-century homes compete for the view with newer motels, and the beach fills up with families throughout the day. Off season, this beach is virtually deserted, perfect for romantic arm-in-arm strolling.
Nauset Beach: Located along the outer "elbow" of the Cape, this barrier beach descends all the way from East Orleans to a point parallel to Chatham -- about 9 miles in all, each mile increasingly deserted. The entry point, however, is a body squeeze: It's here that the young crowd convenes to strut their stuff. Administered by the town of Orleans, but still considered part of the Cape Cod National Seashore, Nauset Beach has paid parking, restrooms, and a snack bar.
Cahoon Hollow Beach: Spectacular Cahoon Hollow Beach on the rough, frigid Atlantic Ocean is a winding trek down a 75-foot dune. One Wellfleet favorite, which boasts a most unusual music club housed in an 1897 lifesaving station is called The Beachcomber -- referred to fondly as the 'Comber, or better yet, 'Coma (tel. 508/349-6055). Twenty-somethings are the primary patrons, but lingering families also enjoy the reggae and rock that start to leak out late in the afternoon on summer weekends.
Race Point Beach: Free of the sexual politics that predominate the beaches closer to Provincetown (certain sections of Herring Cove Beach are tacitly reserved for gays or lesbians), Race Point -- another Cape Cod National Seashore beach at the northernmost tip of the Cape -- is strictly nondenominational. Even whales are welcome -- they can often be spotted with the bare eye, surging toward Stellwagen Bank. The Province Lands Visitor Center at Race Point (tel. 508/487-1256) has particularly good views.
Jetties Beach: Nantucket's beaches as a rule have the best amenities of any beaches in the region; most have restrooms, showers, lifeguards, and food concessions. For families and active types, Jetties Beach (just a half-mile from the center of town) can't be beat. Offering boat and windsurfing rentals, tennis courts, volleyball nets, a playground, and great fishing (off the eponymous jetties), it's also scenic (those jetties again) with calm, warm water.
Aquinnah Beach (formerly Gay Head) (Martha's Vineyard): These landmark bluffs on the western extremity of Martha's Vineyard (call the chamber of commerce at tel. 508/693-0085 for directions) are threatened with erosion, so it's no longer politically correct to engage in multicolored mud baths, as hippies once did. Still, it's an incredibly scenic place to swim -- come early to beat the crowds.
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It wasn't long ago that "fancy" food in these parts began and ended with classic French. Several spots still uphold the old standards, but the New American Revolution has sparked ever-more inventive ways to highlight local delicacies. The best luxury hotels all maintain superlative restaurants, and soaring on par with them are the following choices, some chef-owned and all truly memorable.
La Cucina Sul Mare (Falmouth; tel. 508/548-5600): The constant line outside this Main Street restaurant will be the first hint at its popularity. You'll soon see why. Chef Mark Ciflone and his wife Cynthia have created a very special establishment, with a top-notch waitstaff and a romantic and fun atmosphere. Mark's dishes are delicious, from his signature lasagna to the lobster fra diavlo. Portions are huge.
The Regatta of Cotuit at the Crocker House (Cotuit; tel. 508/428-5715): What most distinguishes the Regatta from its competition is the sensational service, far exceeding most local establishments. In addition, the Regatta of Cotuit has a quintessential old Cape Cod setting -- the building was once a stagecoach inn, and the decor is formal Federal style. Food here is consistently excellent, with fresh ingredients, generous portions, and creative preparations.
Ristorante Barolo (Hyannis; tel. 508/778-2878): This wonderful Italian restaurant is tucked away in an office complex on North Street. The authentic Northern Italian cuisine is carefully prepared and served with style and exuberance. It's a romantic spot for a special dinner but also a good choice for a large group.
abbicci (Yarmouth Port; tel. 508/362-3501): It's a bit of a shock to find this sophisticated Northern Italian restaurant tucked into an antique Cape on the Old King's Highway. Those in the know have discovered abbicci, though, and it can be tough to get a reservation here on a summer weekend. Instead, go during the week when the skilled staff is a little more relaxed and you can linger over the delicate cuisine and the fine wine that should accompany it.
28 Atlantic (Chatham; tel. 508/432-5400): This restaurant at the Wequassett Inn and Resort in Chatham has recently undergone a multimillion-dollar makeover, and the results are impressive. Floor-to-ceiling plate-glass windows give diners a panoramic view of Pleasant Bay as they dine in this elegant setting. The menu is loaded with delicacies from around the world. Professional waiters will see to your comfort and thorough satisfaction.
The Bramble Inn Restaurant (Brewster; tel. 508/896-7644): An elegantly established entry in the Lower Cape dining scene, this is a favorite for those who don't mind a rather steeply priced, four-course, fixed-price dinner. The five intimate dining rooms are decorated with antique china and fresh flowers. Chef Ruth Manchester is a local favorite for her extraordinary, evolving cuisine.
Lorraine's (Provincetown; tel. 508/487-6074): This is exciting cuisine, part Mexican, part New American and all sensational. Even people who don't like Mexican food should try Lorraine's. Start your meal off with a shot of Tequila from the four-page menu and chase it with their special recipe tomato juice. Now you're off and running. Try something different -- you can hardly help it here -- like the sea scallops flambéed in tequila and topped with green-chile sauce.
Òran Mór (Nantucket; tel. 508/228-8655): Chef/owner Peter Wallace has worked his magic on this humble space, transforming it into an elegant and very romantic setting for his unusual and creative cuisine. His eclectic style ranges from very spicy, hot fusion to simple international dishes, with many grilled items on the menu. An excellent sommelier is on hand to assist wine lovers.
L'étoile (Edgartown, Martha's Vineyard; tel. 508/627-5187): This exquisite conservatory at the elegant Charlotte Inn has long been the best restaurant on the Vineyard, if not the entire region. The fixed-price dinner, a triumph of French cuisine, may be a tad extravagant, but . . . for a special occasion, you can't do any better than this.
The Best Clam Shacks
The Clam Shack (Falmouth Harbor; tel. 508/540-7758): The ultimate clam shack sits on the edge of the harbor and serves up reasonably priced fried seafood with all the fixings. Order the fried clams (with bellies, please!), and squeeze into the picnic tables beside the counter to await your feast.
Mill Way (Barnstable Harbor; tel. 508/362-2760): Sort of a gourmet clam shack, Mill Way offers succulent specialties beyond the usual picnic-table fare. This is a seasonal joint (open May to mid-Oct), and when it's open, it's packed, so go early and hungry.
Cap't Cass Rock Harbor Seafood (Orleans; no phone): Take a photo of the family in front of this shack covered with colorful buoys, then go inside and chow down. Hearty portions of simply prepared fresh fish keep diners coming back year after year.
Moby Dick's Restaurant (Wellfleet; tel. 508/349-9795): Unfortunately, word has spread about this terrific restaurant, and it can get pretty mobbed here around suppertime. Still, it's a terrific place to bring the family, screaming kids and all. The clambake special is a 1 1/4-pound lobster, native Monomoy steamed clams, and corn on the cob. Perfect.
Sayle's Seafood (Nantucket; tel. 508/228-4599): Take a 10-minute walk from town on Washington Street Extension, and you'll arrive at this fish store-cum-clam shack. Charlie Sayles is a local fisherman, and everything here is deliciously fresh. Get your fried clams to go, and eat them picnic-style at the beach.
The Bite (Menemsha, Martha's Vineyard; tel. 508/645-9239): A travel writer once called it the best restaurant on Martha's Vineyard, perhaps in retaliation for a high-priced meal in Edgartown. Nevertheless, this is a top-shelf clam shack, tucked away in a picturesque fishing village. Order your meal to go and stroll over to the beach, which has the best sunset views on the island. The fried clams are delicious; some say the secret is the batter. Of course, the fish, unloaded just steps away, couldn't be fresher. What more could you want?
