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Best Historic Hotel: The grande dame of Washington hotels is the magnificent Renaissance Mayflower, 1127 Connecticut Ave. NW (tel. 800/468-3571 or 202/347-3000; www.renaissancehotels.com/wassh), which, when it was built in 1925, was considered not only the last word in luxury and beauty, but also "the second-best address" in town. Harry S Truman preferred it to the White House.
Best Historic-into-Hip Hotel: Hotel Monaco, 700 F St. NW (tel. 800/649-1202 or 202/628-7177; www.monaco-dc.com), with its mid-19th-century neoclassical architecture, looks stately and historic. Step inside, though, and you'll marvel over the way the hotel cleverly marries contemporary decor with original, century-and-a-half-old features.
Best Location: Willard Inter-Continental, 1401 Pennsylvania Ave. NW (tel. 800/827-1747 or 202/628-9100; www.washington.interconti.com), is within walking distance of the White House, museums, theaters, downtown offices, good restaurants, and the Metro; and in this, an inaugural year, it's prime position puts it right on the parade route. It's also a quick taxi ride to Capitol Hill. A top contender in the best historic hotel category, as well.
Best Place for Hipsters: It's a toss up between the Hotel Rouge, 1315 16th St. NW (tel. 800/368-5689 or 202/232-8000; www.rougehotel.com), where the color red rules in the decor, Bloody Marys are complimentary in the morning, and Red Bull is found in the in-room minibar; and the Topaz Hotel, 1733 N St. NW (tel. 800/424-2950 or 202/393-3000; www.topazhotel.com), where the decor is all New Agey, the complimentary morning drinks are energy potions, and guest room offerings include "yoga" rooms, which come with yoga mat and instructional tapes, and "energy" rooms, which come with a piece of exercise equipment and fitness magazines. Each of the hotels has an exotically decorated bar that serves wild drinks and delicious food.
Best Place for a Romantic Getaway: The posh Jefferson, 1200 16th St. NW (tel. 800/235-6397 or 202/347-2200; www.thejeffersonhotel.com), is just enough off the beaten track, but still conveniently downtown, to feel like you've really escaped. Because the service, bar, and restaurant (see chapter 6) are outstanding, you have no need to leave the premises. The restaurant has one of the most romantic nooks in the city. Just up the street at 16th and K streets is another excellent choice, the The St. Regis, 923 16th St. NW (tel. 800/562-5661 or 202/638-2626; www.stregis.com), with its luxurious guest rooms, an opulent lobby that resembles an Italian palazzo, and a cozy paneled bar.
Best Moderately Priced Hotel: Embassy Suites Hotel Downtown, 1250 22nd St. NW (tel. 800/EMBASSY or 202/857-3388; www.embassysuitesdcmetro.com), is located downtown, within easy walking distance of the White House, Dupont Circle, and Foggy Bottom. Its rates are a good value ($149-$309) for its newly refurbished two-room suites with kitchenettes. The hotel has its own fitness center, sauna, and indoor pool, and serves a complimentary full breakfast and evening reception daily.
Best Inexpensive Hotel: The Jurys Normandy Inn, a boutique hotel at 2118 Wyoming Ave. NW (tel. 800/424-3729 or 202/483-1350; www.jurysdoyle.com), charges $89 to $185 for personable service and rooms that are small but charming. Extras like an exercise room, a pool, and a restaurant are available at its sister hotel around the corner.
Best Inn: The charming Morrison-Clark Historic Inn, 1015 L St. NW (tel. 800/332-7898 or 202/898-1200; www.morrisonclark.com), housed in two beautifully restored Victorian town houses, has lovely rooms and a good restaurant.
Best B&B: Swann House, 1808 New Hampshire Ave. NW (tel. 202/265-4414; www.swannhouse.com), is remarkably pretty and comfortable, and in a great neighborhood (Dupont Circle).
Best Service: The staff at The Ritz-Carlton, 1150 22nd St. NW (tel. 800/241-3333 or 202/835-0500; www.ritzcarlton.com), is engaging but not overbearing; service is solicitous and quick, whether you've ordered a glass of wine in the lounge or room service. A 24-hour concierge will handle anything you request, and the nightly turndown maid places a freshly baked brownie upon your pillow instead of a mint. Likewise, the Four Seasons Hotel, 2800 Pennsylvania Ave. NW (tel. 800/332-3442 or 202/342-0444; www.fourseasons.com), pampers you relentlessly and greets you by name. The hotel also offers an "I Need It Now" program that delivers any of 100 or more left-at-home essentials (tweezers, batteries, cuff links, electric hair curlers, and so on) to you in 3 minutes, at no cost. And finally, the new Mandarin Oriental, 1330 Maryland Ave. SW (tel. 866/526-6567 or 202/554-8588; www.mandarinoriental.com), where the staff speak in hushed tones, almost bowing; the spa features something called an amethyst steam room; and the very design of the hotel follows the principles of feng shui, and is intended to attract good fortune.
Best for Pets: The Jefferson, 1200 16th St. NW (tel. 800/235-6397 or 202/347-2200; www.thejeffersonhotel.com), is known for its pet perks, which include pet place mats and toys and treats in the room, information about nearby dog-walking routes and veterinarians, and the availability of pet-walking and pet-sitting services.
Best Place to Hide If You're Embroiled in a Scandal: Lovely as it is, the Jurys Normandy Inn, 2118 Wyoming Ave. NW (tel. 800/424-3729 or 202/483-1350; www.jurysdoyle.com), remains unknown to many Washingtonians -- a plus if you need to lie low. The neighborhood teems with embassies, in case your trouble is of the I-need-a-foreign-government-to-bail-me-out variety. (And it's a bargain to boot.)
Best for Business Travelers: If money's no object, the Four Seasons Hotel, 2800 Pennsylvania Ave. NW (tel. 800/332-3442 or 202/342-0444; www.fourseasons.com), is a standout, offering complimentary sedan service weekdays within the District, high-speed Internet access in every room, and soundproofed rooms, each with an office equipped with a fax machine and portable telephones. Transmitters installed throughout the entire hotel afford you wireless connection to the Internet on your laptop, wherever you go in the hotel. Finally, the hotel has started up a "Travel Light" program, which allows guests who stay there frequently to store personal belongings at the hotel; you then find your possessions waiting for you in your room, upon your return.
Business travelers on a budget should try the Four Points Sheraton, Washington, D.C. Downtown, 1201 K St. NW (tel. 888/481-7191 or 202/289-7600; www.fourpointswashingtondc.com). You'll get a great central downtown location near both convention centers, weekday rates as low as $99, and services that include high-speed Internet access in all rooms, a 24-hour fitness center, and an excellent on-site restaurant for business entertaining.
Best Hotel Restaurant: My vote goes to Michel Richard Citronelle, in the Latham Hotel, 3000 M St. NW (tel. 202/625-2150; www.citronelledc.com), for creative French fare; this hotel is not included in this year's edition of the book, though its sister hotel, the Georgetown Inn, 1310 Wisconsin Ave. NW, (tel. 202/333-8900) is for great American fare. Another top pick is the Melrose, in the Park Hyatt, 1201 24th St. NW (tel. 202/419-6755; www.washington.parkhyatt.com), for New American cuisine.
Best Health Club: The Ritz-Carlton, 1150 22nd St. NW (tel. 800/241-3333 or 202/835-0500; www.ritzcarlton.com), has the best fitness center in the city. Its two-level, 100,000-square-foot Sports Club/LA boasts state-of-the-art weight-training equipment and free weights, two regulation-size basketball courts and four squash courts, an indoor heated swimming pool and aquatics pool with sun deck, exercise classes, personal trainers, the full-service Splash Spa and Roche Salon, and its own restaurant and cafe.
Best Views: The Hay-Adams, One Lafayette Square, 16th and H streets NW (tel. 800/853-6807 or 202/638-6600; www.hayadams.com), has such a great, unobstructed view of the White House that the Secret Service comes over regularly to do security sweeps of the place.
Best for Travelers with Disabilities: The Omni Shoreham Hotel, 2500 Calvert St. NW (tel. 800/843-6664 or 202/234-0700; www.omnihotels.com), has 41 specially equipped rooms for guests with disabilities, about half with roll-in showers; vibrating door knockers and pillows, TTYs, and flashing lights to alert guests when fire alarms are sounding (all of these devices are available, but you must ask for them); and the hotel carries copies of disabilityguide.org's Access Entertainment guide, which offers detailed information about how to travel around and enjoy D.C., if you have disabilities.
Best for Packages: The St. Gregory Luxury Hotel and Suites, 2033 M St. NW (at 21st St.; tel. 800/829-5034 or 202/530-3600; www.stgregoryhotelwdc.com), is distinctly lovely, which makes its packages distinctly good values. One example: posted on its website in 2004 was the One Dollar Clearance Sale, which offered you an overnight stay for $169, with the second night for $1. The package was available on an ongoing basis, with rates fluctuating between $169 and $209, on Friday and Saturday nights, or Saturday and Sunday nights. (If this package is no longer available, look for others on the website.)
Best for Deluxe-Deluxe: The Mandarin Oriental, 1330 Maryland Ave. SW; tel. 866/526-6567 or 202/554-8588; www.mandarinoriental.com), is new, just opened in April 2004, but it's giving the Four Seasons and Ritz-Carltons a run for their money by providing sublime service, almost decadent spa features ("a haven of holistic rejuvenation and tranquility"), heavenly guest rooms (Fili D'Oro linens, flat-screen TVs), and what promise to be two of the best restaurants in town: the Café MoZu and a signature restaurant (yet unnamed), whose chef most recently worked at the world-renowned French Laundry restaurant, in California.
Book together and save $228 on average
Sipping Afternoon Tea at the Top of Washington National Cathedral. On Tuesday and Wednesday afternoons at 1:30pm, you can tour the world's sixth largest cathedral, then indulge in tea, scones, and lemon tarts served on the seventh floor of the West tower, whose arched windows overlook the city and beyond to Sugarloaf Mountain in Maryland. It's $22 per person; reserve as far in advance as possible (tel. 202/537-8993).
Visiting the Lincoln Memorial After Dark. A must. During the day, be prepared to run interference with hordes of schoolchildren and tour groups; at night, the experience is amazing.
Taking a Monument and Memorials Walking Tour. Have a hearty breakfast, then take the Metro to Foggy Bottom, and when you exit turn right on 23rd Street NW and follow it to Constitution Avenue NW. Cross the avenue, make a left, walk past Henry Bacon Drive, and follow the signs to the Vietnam and Lincoln memorials; cross Independence Avenue and follow the cherry tree-lined Tidal Basin path to the FDR Memorial and further to the Jefferson Memorial; circle around the other side of the Tidal Basin and carefully re-cross Independence Avenue to view the National World War II Memorial; then traverse the grounds of the Washington Monument to finish your tour there. This is a long but beautiful hike; afterward, head up 15th Street NW for a strength-restoring meal at one of the many excellent downtown restaurants.
Rambling Through Rock Creek Park. A paved bike/walking path extends 11 miles from the Lincoln Memorial to the Maryland border. You can hop on the trail at many spots throughout the city -- it runs past the National Zoo, behind the Omni Shoreham Hotel in Woodley Park, near Dupont Circle, and across from the Watergate/Kennedy Center complex. You can rent a bike from Big Wheel Bikes at 1034 33rd St. NW (tel. 202/337-0254) in Georgetown, and from Thompson's Boat Center (tel. 202/333-4861), located on the path across from the Kennedy Center. For a really long bike ride, trek to the Lincoln Memorial, get yourself across the busy stretch that connects the parkway to the Arlington Memorial Bridge, and cross the bridge to the trail on the other side; this path winds 19 miles to Mount Vernon.
Spending the Day in Alexandria. Just a short distance (by Metro, car, or bike) from the District is George Washington's Virginia hometown. Roam the quaint cobblestone streets, browse charming boutiques and antiques stores, visit the 18th-century houses and other historic attractions, and dine in one of Alexandria's fine restaurants.
Weighing in Judgment. If you're in town when the Supreme Court is in session (Oct to late Apr; call tel. 202/479-3211 for details), you can observe a case argued; it's thrilling to see this august institution at work.
Admiring the Library of Congress. The magnificent Italian Renaissance-style Thomas Jefferson Building of the Library of Congress -- filled with murals, mosaics, sculptures, and allegorical paintings -- is one of America's most notable architectural achievements. The LOC also displays exhibits of American treasures, from Thomas Jefferson's rough draft of the Declaration of Independence to the piano and other belongings used by American composers Ira and George Gershwin.
Attending a Millennium Stage Performance at the Kennedy Center. Every evening at 6pm, the Kennedy Center presents a free 1-hour concert performed by local, up-and-coming, national or international musicians. This is a winner. Call the Kennedy Center (tel. 800/444-1324 or 202/467-4600), or check its website at www.kennedy-center.org to see the schedule of upcoming acts.
Spending a Morning on the Mall. Take the Metro to the Smithsonian station early in the morning (about 8am is early enough), when the Mall is magical and tourist-free. Walk toward the Capitol Building along Jefferson Drive to the Smithsonian Information Center (the Castle) and stroll through the magnolia-lined parterres of the beautiful Enid A. Haupt Garden. Return to Jefferson Drive, walk farther east to the Hirshhorn, ducking in, on your way, for a look at the lovely Ripley Garden, before crossing the street to tour the Hirshhorn's sunken Sculpture Garden. Climb back to street level and cross the Mall to the enchanting National Gallery Sculpture Garden, at 7th Street and Madison Drive.
Debarking at Union Station. Noted architect Daniel H. Burnham's turn-of-the-20th-century beaux arts railway station is worth a visit even if you're not trying to catch a train. Dawdle and admire its coffered 96-foot-high ceilings, grand arches, and great halls, modeled after the Baths of Diocletian and the Arch of Constantine in Rome. Then shop and eat: The station's 1988 restoration filled the trilevel hall with everything from Ann Taylor and Crabtree & Evelyn to a high-quality food court and the refined B. Smith's restaurant.
Enjoying an Artful Evening at the Phillips Collection. Thursday evenings year-round, from 5 to 8:30pm, you pay $8 to tour the mansion-museum rooms filled with Impressionist, post-Impressionist, and modern art. Your tour ends up in the paneled Music Room, where you'll enjoy jazz, blues, or other musical combinations performed by fine local musicians, topped off by an artful lecture. It's a popular mingling spot for singles (there's a cash bar and sandwich fare). Call tel. 202/387-2151 for information. See chapter 7 for complete details on the Phillips Collection. See chapter 9 for more nightlife.
Strolling Along Embassy Row. Head northwest on Massachusetts Avenue from Dupont Circle. It's a gorgeous walk along tree-shaded streets lined with beaux-arts mansions. Built by fabulously wealthy magnates during the Gilded Age, most of these palatial precincts are occupied today by foreign embassies.
People-Watching at Dupont Circle. One of the few "living" circles, Dupont's is the all-weather hangout for mondo-bizarre biker-couriers, chess players, street musicians, and lovers. Sit on a bench and be astounded by the passing scene.
Viewing Washington from the Water. Cruise the Potomac River aboard one of several sightseeing vessels and relax from foot-weary travels. River cruises not only offer a pleasant interval for catching a second wind, they treat you to a marvelous perspective of the city.
Cutting a Deal at the Georgetown Flea Market. Pick up a latte and spend a pleasant Sunday browsing through the castoffs of wealthy Washingtonians, hand-painted furniture by local artists, and a hodgepodge of antiques and collectibles. Everybody shops here at one time or another, so you never know who you'll see or what you'll find. Wisconsin Avenue NW at S Street NW in Georgetown; open year-round, Sunday from 9am to 5pm.
Shopping at Eastern Market. Capitol Hill is home to more than government buildings; it's a community of old town houses, antiques shops, and the veritable institution, Eastern Market. Here, the locals barter and shop every Saturday and Sunday for fresh produce and baked goods, and flea-market bargains. At 7th Street SE, between North Carolina Avenue and C Street SE.
Ordering Drinks on the Sky Terrace of the Hotel Washington. Posher bars exist, but none with this view. The experience is almost a cliché in Washington: When spring arrives, make a date to sit on this outdoor rooftop terrace, sip a gin and tonic, and gaze at the panoramic view of the White House, Treasury Building, and monuments. Open from the end of April to October for drinks and light fare, it's located at 515 15th St. NW, at Pennsylvania Avenue NW (tel. 202/638-5900).
Chilling to the Sounds of Live Jazz in the Sculpture Garden. Friday evenings in the summer at the National Gallery of Art Sculpture Garden, dip your toes in the fountain pool and chill, as live jazz groups serenade you, from 5 to 8pm. The garden's Pavilion Café sells tapas and wine and beer, by the way.
Ice Skating on the Mall. The National Gallery of Art Sculpture Garden pool turns into an ice-skating rink in winter. So visit the Gallery, finishing up at the Sculpture Garden, where you can rent skates and twirl around on the ice, admiring sculptures as you go. Treat yourself to hot chocolate and sandwiches at the Pavilion Café in the garden. 7th Street and Madison Drive.